Guardian India correspondent Michael Safi takes a journey along the Yamuna river.
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Stretching 855 miles (1,375km) across the north of the country, at its source in the Himalayas its water is crystal clear.
However, once it streams through New Delhi, it turns into one of the filthiest rivers in the world. Rapid urbanisation is partly to blame, but so is lax enforcement of laws against illegal dumping.
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